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| Archadeck |
I'd like to offer some expert advice on preparing your deck for staining and great tips on how to properly stain your deck. The products that I recommend are from Olympic.
Exposure to UV rays and outdoor elements will cause your deck to split, crack and warp over time. In order for your deck to look better and last longer, there are a few steps you can take to ensure you'll have your deck looking it's best for years to come.
Keep in mind, this project will take a few days to complete - if done correctly. You'll have to wait a bit in between cleaning and sealing so the weather will play an important factor in this project. Grab a helper, follow these steps. It's one less project you have to do next spring.
Step 1.
Do you know for sure that you even need to stain your deck?
Here's how to tell. The water test. Sprinkle clean water on your deck, just about a cup. If the water soaks right in, your deck is ready to be stained (which is a sealant). If the water beads up on your deck, your deck still has a sealant on it and is still protected.
Step 2.
Preparing your deck for staining.
Ok. Your deck just failed the water test and now you are ready to prepare your deck for staining. Most people at this point grab the power washer and clean the daylights out of their deck. *** DO NOT USE A POWER WASHER TO CLEAN YOUR DECK ** This is so important. Although it makes sense to wash the deck this way, this step is too invasive for your wood. Power washing pounds water INTO the wood, along with the dirt. Although the end result does look like the wood is clean, what you're actually doing is roughing up the pulp on the wood. If you look closely at the wood when you are done power washing, you'll see it looks a bit "fuzzy". This will result in an uneven application for your stain. Use a garden sprayer -they're cheap, only about $10-12.
FYI.
Just because your deck is brand new and has perfectly clean pressure treated wood doesn't mean it doesn't have to be cleaned. Pressure treated wood is LOADED with chemicals. You ALWAYS have to clean your deck right before staining. If you don't, the stain will NOT properly soak into the wood resulting in an uneven application for stain.
Step 3
Clean and prepare
Of course remove all deck furniture, plants, grills or any other accessory you may have. Sweep, remove any popping nails and lightly sand any splintered areas with 80-grit sandpaper.
Step 4
What cleaner do I use on the deck?
You won't believe how simple this step is. Lowe's has a product called “Olympic Deck Cleaner”. Here's what you'll need:
- a garden sprayer ( shown above )
- stiff bristle push broom
- a garden hose to rinse
**** Warning: Use Olympic Deck Brightener for cedar and Redwood. If you have cedar or redwood on your deck and use the other deck cleaner, your deck will turn BLACK. Make sure you use the correct cleaner for the type of wood you have. If you have composite wood, the other cleaner is fine.
Like all cleaners, read the instructions carefully. You may have to pre-wet the deck. They also recommend wetting all vegetation around your deck that my come in contact with the cleaner and it may recommend covering the immediate bushes with plastic sheeting.
Spray the cleaner on, wait 10-15 minutes then rinse. That's it! No scrubbing needed. You may have to repeat this process for suborn or older stains. Again, read ALL instructions for detailed information.
Step 5
Staining / Sealing
Staining and sealing is the same. Some people think they have to seal the deck after they stain it but that is what a stain is - a sealer. There are a few different types of stains:
- Clear - offers minimal protection from the elements. This is good to use if you want to see the beauty of the wood. You'll have to reapply this from 6 months - 2 years so you see this offers very little protection for your wood.
- Semi-Transparent - Now we are getting into the stain that has more pigment in it. You can choose the color you like - remember, if you need help with color, call in a Color Specialist to help you with your decision. You really don't want to go through this entire process then realize that you are not happy with your color choice. This product has subtle color but still allows some of the grain to show through. Can last from 5 - 7 years depending on if you use it on deck or fence before it needs to be done again.
- Solid - The solid stains will offer you the most protection for your wood - up to 8 years before having to re-stain. Know that using a solid stain you will NOT see any of the wood grain through the stain. It's really quite thick. There are many beautiful colors available in the solids.
How to apply the stain
This is what you'll need:
- A natural bristle brush - not a synthetic. If you use a sprayer, the stain will not get worked into the surface and you'll go through more product. If you use a roller, make sure you use a very high quality roller so lint will not shed into your stain. Whatever you choose to apply the stain with, you will still need a brush to "back brush" or "back roll" to prevent puddles.
- Rags, goggles, work cloths, different size brushes to get into small areas or a staining glove and a nice sunny day to dry your stain.
I know this sounds like a lot and it is a big project. What I can recommend from experience is to:
- choose the right color
- prepare your surface
- read all instructions before starting
- use the right products and materials to get the best results - no short cuts - it will show!
- make sure weather conditions are ideal.
- Keep in mind that the color will vary depending on the type of wood you have. The samples that are at the store are a starting point for color. Call a Color Specialist to help you with the color decision. If the wood has a yellow undertone, using a yellow color like “Soapstone” will appear yellower when complete.
- Stains will preform differently on different types of woods whether it's decking, fencing or siding.
I'm sure everyone has there own way of cleaning decks and fences. The choice is up to you and the results will be best if used by a reputable company. Good luck!!!








Awesome post, my hubby and I where just talking about this....we will look into this stain treatment...we only need to the the railings, as the deck itself is that trec deck.....thanks Donna!~ I posted my LR with Spring Summer updates:)
ReplyDeleteHi! Just found your blog and have been scanning through - you have so much great and useful info. Thanks for sharing your expertise!
ReplyDeleteKristine
xxx
Comprehensive. Olympic is a tried/true mass merchant product 2;-)
ReplyDeleteSuper duper informative. Like how you got it all buttoned up, Donna.
Wow! Very helpful! Thanks a lot! This will come in handy since I’m in the process of staining my own deck. DIY is a bit challenging, but thanks for tips like this. :D
ReplyDelete,Angelina
I agree, a brand new deck can’t guarantee cleanliness. A friend of mine was uninformed of this fact, it turned out. It’s a failure. >.< And she ended up re-staining after 6 months! I know that’s premature. I shared this so passing over the cleaning of a new deck wouldn’t be considered. Prepped it up properly for the stain to last longer. :)
ReplyDelete